The Palais Concert and Valdelomar: When Lima was a Café and a Writer was at the Center of it All

The Palais Concert: The Heart of Lima's Cultural Scene

At the dawn of the 20th century, Lima was a dynamic city, caught between its colonial past and its modern future, and brimming with artistic expression. At the center of this vibrant city was the Palais Concert, a coffee house located at the corner of Jirón de la Unión and Emancipation Avenue.

Opened in 1913, the Palais Concert quickly became a hub for intellectuals, artists, and politicians. Its tables were witness to passionate discussions, heated debates, and the birth of artistic movements that would shape Peruvian history.

Among the Palais Concert's regulars was Abraham Valdelomar, a writer, poet, journalist, and prominent figure in the Colónida movement. Valdelomar, whose ego was as large as his talent, famously declared, "Lima is Peru, Jirón de la Unión is Lima, the Palais Concert is Jirón de la Unión, and I am the Palais Concert."

This seemingly self-centered statement reveals much about Valdelomar's perspective and the historical context of the time. Lima was the political and cultural center of Peru, Jirón de la Unión was the heart of Lima, and the Palais Concert was where the intellectual elite gathered. By proclaiming "I am the Palais Concert," Valdelomar positioned himself at the center of Lima's cultural scene.

Beyond Valdelomar's ego, the Palais Concert was a space for cultural exchange where poems were read, ideas were debated, and artistic movements were born. For Valdelomar, this place embodied the modernity and sophistication to which he aspired.

The Palais Concert eventually lost its luster and closed its doors in 1930. It was subsequently transformed into a chicken restaurant, a shoe store, a nightclub, and finally, a department store.

Despite his untimely death at the age of 31, Valdelomar left a significant mark on Peruvian literature. His statement about the Palais Concert, while seemingly self-centered, reflects the importance of this space in Lima's cultural life and the central role that Valdelomar played in it.

The Jirón de la Unión Today: A Blend of History and Modernity

Today, the Jirón de la Unión stands as a testament to Lima's rich history. While the Palais Concert no longer exists, its spirit lives on in the bohemian and cultural atmosphere that still permeates the street.

A walk along the Jirón de la Unión reveals a captivating mix of old and new. Colonial buildings now house trendy fashion stores, cafes and restaurants offer the best of Peruvian cuisine, and street artists fill the air with music and color.

The Plaza de Armas, the heart of Lima, is a must-see. Here, visitors can admire the majestic Cathedral and the Government Palace. Other nearby attractions include the Convent of San Francisco, with its impressive catacombs, and the Church of Santo Domingo, home to the tomb of Santa Rosa de Lima.

The Jirón de la Unión is also an ideal place for shopping. Craft markets offer unique souvenirs, and street stalls and traditional cafes sell delicious Lima sweets like picarones and suspiro limeño.

The Jirón de la Unión is a place that transports visitors back in time, allowing them to discover the history and culture of Lima and offering an unforgettable travel experience.